500: Richard Sanford and the Hot Tub Time Machine Wine Fermenters

500: Richard Sanford and the Hot Tub Time Machine Wine Fermenters

Richard Sanford co-founded the Sanford and Benedict Winery and planted the Sanford and Benedict Vineyard. He founded the Sanford Winery, and he also founded the Alma Rosa Winery, all in Santa Barbara County, California.


Richard discusses his sailing career, working in the merchant marine, racing boats recreationally, and as an officer in the United States Navy. He talks about his travels around the globe, both before and after his service in the Vietnam War. He reflects on his short time working in business and education, and then his segue to planting a vineyard in what became the Sta. Rita Hills appellation of California. That vineyard became known as the Sanford and Benedict vineyard, and Richard co-founded the Sanford and Benedict Winery with Michael Benedict to produce wine from that vineyard. They had realized that Santa Barbara County, with its transverse mountain range, offered opportunities for growing vines in areas cooled by winds coming off the Pacific Ocean.


Richard remembers his introduction to wine and a bottle of Volnay, and his desire to plant Pinot Noir in the Sanford and Benedict Vineyard. He talks about the early days getting the vineyard going, in an area where Pinot Noir had not been planted previously. He discusses the geography and geology of the place, as well as the history of ownership there. Richard recalls converting a small barn into a winemaking facility, building the fermenters, and inviting his friends to harvest the first grapes from Sanford and Benedict. He also recalls the subsequent visit from the local sheriff. Besides the attention of the police, the activity at Sanford and Benedict also drew interest from wine writer Robert Lawrence Balzer, who wrote about the wine being made near Lompoc.


Richard talks throughout this interview about both the agriculture aspect and the business side of making wine. He notes that tax write offs were an impetus for the planting of many of the vineyards in Santa Barbara County in the 1970s. He talks about the difficulties of dry farming and of organic viticulture in that area. Richard recalls meeting his wife Thekla during a fun sail. And he talks about the tough breakup with his business partner Michael Benedict that would eventually lead Richard to found the Sanford Winery near to the original Sanford and Benedict Vineyard.


Richard recalls the Small Winery Technical Society, and the other winemakers in the group, such as Dick Graff (Chalone) and Josh Jensen (Calera). He talks about the role that that group played in his own development as a winemaker, and the camaraderie that he found amongst a group of friends who were also competitors in the wine business. Richard thinks on that period with a lot of fondness. He also speaks fondly of the period of time where he felt he was at the forefront of wine and food in California, meeting and sharing time with people like Julia Child and Robert Mondavi.


Richard shares his memories of visiting Burgundy and meeting vigneron and winery owners like Vincent Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive, Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac, and Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Richard notes specifically what he learned while visiting Burgundy, and what he then brought back to his own winemaking work in California.


Richard notes how many more vineyards had been planted in the surrounding area by the time he started the Sanford Winery, a stark difference from when he first planted the Sanford and Benedict vineyard. He talks about the shifts in ownership for those vineyards over time. He talks about adding a Sauvignon Blanc to his white wine lineup, in addition to the Chardonnay. He touches on the specifics of the Sanford and Benedict Vineyard, in terms of how the wines from there taste. And he discusses the elaborate construction of the Sanford winery facility, an expensive project that obliged him to take on an additional financial partner in the Sanford Winery and would eventually lead to Richard's exit from the Sanford Winery that bears his name. Richard is frank in this interview about the challenges he faced in the wine business during his career.


Richard states that he has had to dust himself off and start over several times, such as when he founded the Alma Rosa Winery with Thekla after leaving the Sanford Winery. As with the winery projects Richard was involved with earlier, the Alma Rosa Winery is also in what is now referred to as the Sta. Rita Hills appellation. It is an area that saw increased interest from consumers in the wake of the movie Sideways, something Richard talks about in this episode. Richard would eventually be obliged to sell the Alma Rosa Winery, but was involved in planting vineyard parcels there. He continues to live and work in Santa Barbara County, an area which is now well-known for its success with the Pinot Noir grape.




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[00:01:01] I'm Levi Dalton, and this is all drink to that where we get behind the scenes of the wine business

[00:01:07] You

[00:01:24] Richard Sanford on the show today Richard co-founded the Sanford and Benedict winery in Santa Barbara County and then

[00:01:30] Founded Sanford winery and then also Alma Rosa also in Santa Barbara. Hello, sir. How are you? I'm very well today

[00:01:36] So your dad was a graduate of Annapolis the Naval Academy in the 1920s

[00:01:43] 1924 and

[00:01:46] then he went off to the Pacific and was on ships in the Pacific on

[00:01:52] Midway Island when Pearl Harbor happened in

[00:01:57] December 7th and

[00:01:59] I was born in March of 1941. So I

[00:02:04] Was there with my family on December 7th, I was only nine months old so I don't really remember that part

[00:02:13] but soon after we were shipped away from the islands and

[00:02:18] The dependents were shipped off to Los Angeles

[00:02:22] where we

[00:02:24] stayed and grew up really in the Los Angeles region and

[00:02:28] Your dad continued in a naval career and he was in the Korean War

[00:02:32] Went on to the Korean War and then later on

[00:02:38] Became involved in the military sea transportation system

[00:02:43] was captain of the port in Pier 37 in Seattle and I always remember shipping the

[00:02:50] troops off to the war and

[00:02:53] that was very sad to see but it was wonderful to see the homecoming with all the can-can dancers on the

[00:02:59] Pier in Seattle when they returned

[00:03:03] And you grew up Episcopalian your faith was Episcopalian. Yes. My mother was very strong Episcopalian coming from, Texas

[00:03:12] and she was insistent on taking us all to church and we had a

[00:03:17] our Reverend Trigney

[00:03:20] Was a fire and brimstone kind of Reverend

[00:03:24] pretty scary for a young person and

[00:03:27] That's sort of my memory of the whole thing as being a little bit scary going to church

[00:03:33] And she wanted so much for us to be

[00:03:36] faithful and religious but

[00:03:40] Some of it didn't catch on so well

[00:03:42] and then like your father you also became a sailor I

[00:03:48] Had a great affinity for the ocean and I would spend a lot of time

[00:03:53] At the Portuguese Bend Club with the bosun Karl Bjorklund

[00:03:58] He was a Danish man and he taught me all about knots

[00:04:02] taught me how to splice rope and

[00:04:06] I used to go

[00:04:09] Crabbing

[00:04:10] getting lobster

[00:04:12] those days in the 50s we would wade into the water and

[00:04:18] Take red abalone right off the rocks. It was quite magical

[00:04:22] and I would ride down with my sister and

[00:04:26] Get the crab pot and the lobsters and the abalone and we would put them in a sack and ride home

[00:04:34] challenge was sometimes when they lobster would prick the horse through the

[00:04:41] the bag the

[00:04:43] Canvas bag and the horse would run up the hill. Well, I went to

[00:04:50] high school and

[00:04:53] Then sadly my day of graduation

[00:04:58] My father was admitted to the

[00:05:02] Hospital with neurological disease and I have a feeling that it was really PTSD at that time

[00:05:11] he had been sunk on a hospital ship that he was

[00:05:15] Going to Korea on

[00:05:18] Out the San Francisco Bay and was never quite the same

[00:05:23] So it was a sad part in my life that my family couldn't come to my

[00:05:29] graduation ceremony and

[00:05:31] All of our family resources went to his care

[00:05:35] so I had to make my own way and

[00:05:40] We lived close to

[00:05:42] Captain Medvey who was the captain of the port for Standard Oil and in San Pedro

[00:05:48] He helped me get my merchant license

[00:05:52] And so I signed aboard a merchant ship

[00:05:56] To work for a year before I went to college and that's the way I put myself through school.

[00:06:04] I started at UCSB Santa Barbara and

[00:06:09] Began studying geology and I found that when we got more involved in crystallography and mineralogy it became so finite

[00:06:20] That I was more interested in the broader aspects of geology which would be more

[00:06:27] Geomorphology and actually geography

[00:06:31] At that time UCSB did not have a geography department

[00:06:37] but you UC Berkeley had a splendid geography department and

[00:06:43] So I decided to move to Berkeley at that time

[00:06:47] Just had a geography

[00:06:50] And I loved it. It was just wonderful to experience the world and get to know about

[00:06:56] How the world worked and I was so interested in the human interaction with the physical landscape

[00:07:02] Where people went and what they did when they got there. It was just fascinating to me

[00:07:07] And I loved school. It was really a wonderful experience

[00:07:12] And your tuition was $53 a year

[00:07:15] $52

[00:07:17] It was magical, you know to be able to go to school and

[00:07:21] Have so much support

[00:07:24] And there was a moment there where you were

[00:07:27] Going on ships to different countries and during that moment you were drafted.

[00:07:33] I used to do a lot of sailing

[00:07:36] Levee and that was my

[00:07:39] outlet

[00:07:41] Social outlet it was really exciting and fun

[00:07:45] And I went several times to Hawaii actually

[00:07:50] Six times to Hawaii and the boat I was on won the Tahiti race. We had really

[00:07:56] magical experiences sailing with a crew

[00:08:01] Luckily I got into that and began to meet other people I found that

[00:08:07] Sailing was a culture that

[00:08:10] Only

[00:08:12] People with means could have a boat

[00:08:14] but they needed crew to sail the boat and so I

[00:08:18] learned that if I

[00:08:20] sailed well and paid attention I

[00:08:24] Would be invited to go on these different races

[00:08:28] And at that time I was feeling a little sorry for myself because I couldn't afford to go places that my friends were going

[00:08:36] So I thought philosophically

[00:08:39] In fact I'd learned to sail and

[00:08:42] I could learn navigation. I

[00:08:45] Could go anywhere in the world and it wouldn't cost me anything

[00:08:48] and so I set out to do that when I was at UCSB and

[00:08:53] sure enough I began being invited on these races and learned how to navigate and

[00:09:00] Pretty soon I became in demand for racing

[00:09:04] So about I think

[00:09:08] 1963 I went on a race to Hawaii

[00:09:12] and at that time I

[00:09:15] Had a bug and an interest in travel. I

[00:09:19] needed an adventure in my life and

[00:09:23] so I went to Hawaii and then met up with a guy that

[00:09:28] Was going on to Samoa to build voyaging canoes. I

[00:09:32] Had navigation ability and so we went to Samoa together to find the right

[00:09:39] Trees to build these canoes that we were going to sail back to Hawaii

[00:09:44] we went to Western Samoa and

[00:09:49] It was really a magical place because there weren't really a lot of

[00:09:55] Roads, it was mostly

[00:09:57] trails that we walked on

[00:10:00] I'll always remember

[00:10:03] Wearing a lava lava and

[00:10:06] having a

[00:10:08] basket with all my belongings and we would walk around the island because there were no roads and we would be

[00:10:15] invited to stay at the talking chiefs house and

[00:10:19] usually the kids would kill a chicken and they

[00:10:23] prepare it and they'd have a feast and we would sit along with the elders and

[00:10:29] talk about

[00:10:30] Life and only the way we could we didn't speak the language, but enough people spoke English. So

[00:10:37] it was really a

[00:10:39] very exciting experience and we finally

[00:10:43] settled in a little village

[00:10:45] And we went to work

[00:10:47] Looking for the tamalini trees that we needed for our canoes

[00:10:53] But

[00:10:55] The trees that we cut down were rotten on the interior

[00:11:00] and then I developed

[00:11:03] tonsillitis and

[00:11:05] went to

[00:11:07] Apia to the hospital there and

[00:11:11] then eventually went on to

[00:11:15] Fiji in New Zealand

[00:11:17] Because I needed some extra care

[00:11:21] And so I found myself in New Zealand, but really no way to get back

[00:11:27] And that was before New Zealand was a wine country it was all

[00:11:32] sheep

[00:11:34] but I

[00:11:36] signed aboard an English ship from Shaw sal ville and Albion on a

[00:11:42] refrigerator ship full of butter and lamb that was going to England and

[00:11:47] so we went up through the Panama Canal and

[00:11:51] had lots of experiences with the young crew because in

[00:11:55] in England

[00:11:57] people apprentice and

[00:12:00] So the people were young like myself and I had great pals

[00:12:05] That when we got to England, I would go and visit them in their respective

[00:12:09] Cities and really got a feeling for the culture of the place. It was a wonderful experience

[00:12:15] And you became what was known as a undesirable alien. I was an undesirable

[00:12:21] alien in England and so

[00:12:24] That means that I entered England without

[00:12:30] Documentation I was a seaman and

[00:12:33] so I

[00:12:34] Had to get out and so I went to France for a little while and then came back

[00:12:40] but I was eventually able to make my way back to America and

[00:12:47] In the interim while I was away. I had of course lost my student deferment

[00:12:52] For military service and

[00:12:56] They were very happy to be drafting people into the Vietnam conflict

[00:13:03] Actually my

[00:13:05] Mother wrote me and said your draft notices arrived. What do I do? And I said

[00:13:12] Send it to my last known address

[00:13:14] And

[00:13:15] Those were days when you could go to any post office and have a place to pick up mail that was forwarded to you

[00:13:23] and

[00:13:25] So I have my draft notice to this day that has

[00:13:29] Postmark from all over the world. So when I got back I joined the Naval Reserve

[00:13:35] To keep out of the military because I wanted to finish my studies at Berkeley and

[00:13:42] So I came back and went back to my studies and

[00:13:47] Went to my reserve meetings

[00:13:51] And it was a really challenging time

[00:13:54] Levy because

[00:13:57] There were huge demonstrations against the Vietnam War at that time

[00:14:02] and lots of marching and lots of police and

[00:14:06] Legions of police walking up with their batons and it was very uncomfortable being in the military

[00:14:14] but what witnessing all this happening and

[00:14:19] I

[00:14:20] It was really impactful for me because I saw all the people

[00:14:26] That were demonstrating were

[00:14:30] like sheep following a leader and

[00:14:33] I felt to myself don't people can't people think for themselves and this is not

[00:14:40] appropriate war to be in and I didn't feel very good about it and

[00:14:44] I was in the military and so it was a really

[00:14:48] conflicted

[00:14:49] situation for me

[00:14:51] but nonetheless I had a military family background and my father was a proud military person and

[00:14:59] I decided to continue on and finally when I did graduate I

[00:15:05] went to OCS in Newport, Rhode Island became an officer and

[00:15:10] then I was

[00:15:13] Sent off to a destroyer and spent three years in Vietnam sailed around the South China Sea and

[00:15:21] During gunfire support an outfit called Sea Dragon up in the north coast of Vietnam where we weren't supposed to be

[00:15:28] But that's been declassified so I can tell you I

[00:15:34] Was the navigator on the ship and also the

[00:15:40] administration officer and the

[00:15:45] Personnel officer on the ship and you have a lot of collateral duties on a destroyer because there are a few officers

[00:15:53] So

[00:15:55] When you go into the military as a young person as an officer

[00:16:00] You've got to grow up really fast

[00:16:02] it was just quite an amazing experience to be one time just as a student and

[00:16:10] Four months later, I'm standing on the bridge of a ship responsible for this beautiful ship and all of its men and I'm

[00:16:18] Guiding the ship and it's a it's was scary

[00:16:22] But you really had to grow up and pay attention and

[00:16:27] I

[00:16:29] always

[00:16:30] think that that experience working with men and

[00:16:34] being in command and

[00:16:37] being respectful and responsible for

[00:16:40] my guys was

[00:16:43] monumental in my life

[00:16:45] to bring me to the realization that

[00:16:48] Working with people took courage and respect and

[00:16:53] So it set the stage really for me for

[00:16:57] Working with people in my whole life

[00:17:01] You signed yourself off to destroyer and took a journey through some foreign countries

[00:17:08] It was 1968 I went to see in 1965 and

[00:17:14] In 1968

[00:17:17] It was very well recognized that the Vietnam War was a mistake

[00:17:22] There were huge demonstrations in San Francisco about the war

[00:17:29] And anyone who was going to the war was coming back from the war were not well regarded

[00:17:36] It was a sad period in our country frankly and

[00:17:40] It was a sad period in our country frankly and

[00:17:43] I decided that I did not want to go back to San Francisco to face that I

[00:17:50] felt sheepish about being in the war about going in the first place and

[00:17:56] It's a remarkable to this day people say well, why did you go to the war because everybody was trying to get out?

[00:18:02] And they were very proud of the different methods that they would make to get out

[00:18:07] and so it was a conflict for me, and I I went I

[00:18:15] Found that there was a way to write my orders so that if I went west I

[00:18:21] Could catch a courier airplane that went around the world once a week

[00:18:26] As long as I kept going west

[00:18:29] So I packed my uniform in a little satchel

[00:18:32] And I went off on this courier airplane from Subic Bay

[00:18:37] to

[00:18:40] Bangkok and spent some time there and then got into my uniform and went from Bangkok

[00:18:48] to Calcutta I

[00:18:51] Thought I needed a little spirit quest and this was really what I was doing, and I didn't realize it at the time

[00:18:59] But I was searching for something more fundamental in my life

[00:19:04] and I felt

[00:19:07] That I needed to go to other places to get inspiration and

[00:19:12] I never felt myself particularly religious, but I found myself very spiritual

[00:19:18] and this whole

[00:19:20] experience of the Vietnam and coming back to a

[00:19:27] Country that was non-welcoming

[00:19:30] Caused me to reject the culture that had grown up in

[00:19:37] I said this is not fair

[00:19:40] I don't agree with this and of course McNamara came along a few years later and said sorry you guys

[00:19:47] I made a mistake

[00:19:48] Well, it's a little late

[00:19:50] but

[00:19:52] nonetheless

[00:19:54] I rejected the culture I had grown up with and so doing rejected the

[00:20:01] Religion that I'd grown up with so I was really

[00:20:05] empty

[00:20:07] And I had the opportunity to create my own

[00:20:12] Philosophy in my own way as an adult it's quite remarkable experience

[00:20:18] To start over again as an adult to plan your life

[00:20:23] and

[00:20:25] So I found myself in Calcutta

[00:20:28] thinking that I could

[00:20:29] save the world and

[00:20:31] I walked down the street in

[00:20:34] those days in the

[00:20:36] 60s

[00:20:37] There were lepers

[00:20:39] There were all kinds of people destitute

[00:20:42] Begging I started giving rupees out

[00:20:46] And I kept giving more and more and finally after two blocks of this. I

[00:20:51] Said you know what? I don't have enough money to solve this

[00:20:55] And so I really began to recognize

[00:20:59] compassion and I became very compassionate about the people and understood that that's the nature of

[00:21:05] People all living together and having all these challenges and that was the beauty of

[00:21:11] the philosophy the spiritual philosophy of that part of the world and

[00:21:20] Nepal had just been opened by the king of

[00:21:23] Nepal to outside visitors and

[00:21:29] So I decided I would go from Calcutta I took the train to a place called Raksol

[00:21:36] And I always remember because the only thing I could eat

[00:21:40] was an

[00:21:42] Orange and a coca-cola

[00:21:45] Because everything else I couldn't touch because of all the disease that was there

[00:21:53] So I went to Raksol and then caught a truck and

[00:21:58] Went up the through the low Himalayas into the Kathmandu Valley

[00:22:02] And as I arrived in the Kathmandu Valley, it was just like stepping back to the Middle Ages and

[00:22:11] Spiritual philosophy there of course was

[00:22:15] Sacrifice of goats and there were

[00:22:18] temples with blood draining down and it was quite

[00:22:22] Remarkable different culture than I had grown up

[00:22:26] And of course that

[00:22:29] Hippy time they were advertising by your hashish at the government store because you know the

[00:22:37] People were going for all kinds of psychedelic reasons. I was there for

[00:22:46] more of a spirit quest and

[00:22:50] Eventually left Nepal and then came back to

[00:22:56] California

[00:23:00] But that changed my whole

[00:23:04] Perception of how we should be in the world and I came back

[00:23:10] trying to be in business I had a

[00:23:14] Person that was a great supporter that was a sailing person in

[00:23:20] Santa Barbara, his name was Bill Wilson. He had a boat called the rascal that I sailed on a lot

[00:23:26] And he and I teamed up in business and tried to create a little

[00:23:31] company making videotape for education

[00:23:36] And it was a really exciting project but I found myself in places that I didn't really want to be in I

[00:23:47] Was driving around in a 911 t-porsche and being

[00:23:52] pretty proud of what I was doing and

[00:23:55] Going to Hollywood and having all these meetings and

[00:24:01] Eventually as we were getting this business started I

[00:24:05] Found myself with my briefcase

[00:24:09] In the middle of the San Ynez River

[00:24:14] naked

[00:24:15] trying to do my business work and

[00:24:18] I said to myself

[00:24:21] Something's not quite right here

[00:24:24] There I am in nature

[00:24:27] Trying to do all this stuff that was very foreign to me

[00:24:31] That I really had to give that up and be in nature. And so I

[00:24:41] Decided the way to be in nature

[00:24:44] for my lifetime

[00:24:46] Would be to be an agriculture and to be in farming

[00:24:52] While I was in the Navy

[00:24:55] Our ship was home ported in San Diego

[00:25:02] And I had a shipmate who was a fellow officer

[00:25:06] And we would have dinner together

[00:25:10] periodically and

[00:25:11] We went to bully's steakhouse in La Jolla

[00:25:16] Close to San Diego where our ship was based. I

[00:25:21] Knew nothing about wine

[00:25:24] Our family weren't wine people they had jug wine and

[00:25:32] My friend curiously his name was Scott wine

[00:25:37] Lieutenant Scott wine

[00:25:40] He knew about wine he introduced me to a beautiful volnay and

[00:25:47] That was impactful for me because

[00:25:49] The

[00:25:51] Beverage that I had no concept of I would think I was struck by the elegance of the wine and

[00:25:59] The structure of the pinot noir the volnay being a pinot noir

[00:26:04] Now I didn't feel like it was gonna rush off and be a winemaker, but that set a stage in my mind

[00:26:10] it's at a

[00:26:12] Concept that that was delicious this wine

[00:26:15] So

[00:26:17] When I finally decided that I would be in agriculture I thought

[00:26:22] Well, why wouldn't I grow grapes and?

[00:26:27] Everyone said well, that's a stupid idea

[00:26:32] Actually the farmers said grapes wouldn't grow here, Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara County. I

[00:26:40] Thought well, I just go over the hill and plant some grapes

[00:26:43] Well going over the hill meant that I would be planning grapes in Oporto it was just so warm

[00:26:52] But using my background in geography I began to study the interesting

[00:27:00] Climates of the Santiago Valley

[00:27:04] This is called the transverse mountain range of California and there was a period of time when the crustal development of the

[00:27:15] Coast

[00:27:18] The Pacific Plate

[00:27:20] undercut the North American Plate and a piece broke off

[00:27:26] Because all these mountain ranges were originally

[00:27:29] oriented north and south in California in California

[00:27:34] but at this period

[00:27:37] This crustal deformation caused a big section

[00:27:42] To shift

[00:27:45] 90 degrees and

[00:27:47] So these north-south mountains then shifted to east and west

[00:27:54] So it is curious that you go from Los Angeles

[00:27:59] to Santa Barbara, you're actually driving west and not north and

[00:28:04] That was hard for people to imagine

[00:28:06] But the beauty of that transverse mountain range is that of course we're in the latitude of westerly winds and

[00:28:15] So the winds coming off the ocean blowing into the valley moderated the climate

[00:28:20] and

[00:28:22] so as I began to study more and more about it, I

[00:28:26] found that

[00:28:28] The climate changed about a degree a mile as you went east or west on the transverse mountain range

[00:28:36] You drove with your pickup truck and you put a thermometer

[00:28:39] Through the window and you noticed this change.

[00:28:45] I decided that I wanted to be a wine grower. There was only one person

[00:28:55] Suggested that would be a good idea. His name was Benjamin Hewey

[00:29:00] From Santa Barbara, and he said Richard if I were young man, I'd plant a vineyard

[00:29:05] And I said, I think that's a wonderful idea and I was thinking the same thing and

[00:29:14] So I

[00:29:15] Thought well, where would I go to find more information about this?

[00:29:20] I would go to Davis to the school

[00:29:23] That was really the wine school from California

[00:29:28] So I went there

[00:29:31] Thinking that maybe I would want to go in to get a degree in viticulture or enology

[00:29:36] And I looked at the curriculum I

[00:29:40] Interviewed some of the professors in the curriculum and

[00:29:46] You may remember Maynard Ameren

[00:29:50] There were some wonderful

[00:29:52] Characters in the viticulture department at that time and I talked to a lot of them

[00:30:00] and

[00:30:01] Then I thought to myself, you know

[00:30:05] Do I want to spend three years

[00:30:07] Getting another degree when I'd had a degree from Berkeley

[00:30:12] Or if I planted a vineyard in three years, I'd have some grapes maybe

[00:30:18] So I went to the bookstore at Davis and

[00:30:22] Bought every book I could find about viticulture and enology

[00:30:26] and drove home

[00:30:29] Inspired reading all those books and

[00:30:32] Finally I decided, you know, I think maybe I could probably do this

[00:30:38] And that inspired me

[00:30:40] to learn more about viticulture and where grapes grew and

[00:30:46] I figured out

[00:30:48] That the precision of the whole thing

[00:30:51] was to be where the great variety prospered and

[00:30:57] Grapes grow all over the world as I learned

[00:31:01] So finally I decided that I would find

[00:31:05] the place

[00:31:06] That could duplicate that beautiful volnay that I experienced earlier in the military

[00:31:13] So that's when I took my old

[00:31:18] 1950

[00:31:20] GMC pickup truck and it had a

[00:31:25] Rubber around the windshield and I put my thermometer through it and drove up and down these valleys

[00:31:31] Thinking about the climate and

[00:31:35] zone that I wanted to be in and I found that there were definitely zones of climate and I

[00:31:43] Figured that this phenomenon of these transverse mountain ranges

[00:31:48] Were consistent from San Luis Obispo in the north

[00:31:52] to the San Ys valley in the south

[00:31:56] so

[00:31:57] the Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo

[00:32:00] Santa Maria Valley

[00:32:03] Eroa Grande and

[00:32:05] San Ines Valley

[00:32:08] Los Alamos Valley all open to the west and

[00:32:12] So I went in all those valleys up and down looking for the right place

[00:32:18] And I found a band of climate about four miles wide that I decided I would look within

[00:32:25] And then I began to look at all the different properties

[00:32:30] and my prejudice at that time was that

[00:32:34] Our grapes needed good drainage the drainage was key and

[00:32:42] That as I drove around looking for the right soils I found

[00:32:49] Abandoned

[00:32:51] Bean farm

[00:32:54] That had been owned by a

[00:32:57] Portuguese family

[00:32:59] Portuguese were big settlers in this part of the world a

[00:33:03] lot of people came from the Azores the fishermen ended up at Avila Beach and the farmers came inland so there was a lot of

[00:33:12] garbanzo beans and lima beans

[00:33:16] It was still that sort of

[00:33:21] end of the

[00:33:23] Rancho period

[00:33:26] The Rancho period was really

[00:33:28] 1837 when

[00:33:32] The Mexicans were looking forward to the Yankees coming and they were trying to get land into the

[00:33:38] Mexican ownership, so they granted these large ranches to Mexican national people

[00:33:46] And that began the Rancho period which really didn't last very long but in

[00:33:51] 1837 a lot 1840 that period

[00:33:55] these large ranches

[00:33:57] became popular and

[00:34:02] That was true in Santa Barbara County, so there were a lot of big properties and

[00:34:10] I

[00:34:12] found on

[00:34:13] Santa Rosa Road between

[00:34:16] Buolton and Lompoc

[00:34:18] There was a little property

[00:34:21] that seemed very appealing to me this abandoned bean farm and

[00:34:27] It was bordering the San Ines River

[00:34:30] And it had been an old landslide, so this is all part of the

[00:34:36] Monterey formation it was

[00:34:40] Sedimentary formation in the Miocene period

[00:34:44] and that had been uplifted and tilted and

[00:34:48] weathered

[00:34:49] so there was a lot of ocean deposit a lot of diatomaceous earth and

[00:34:55] And

[00:34:56] because of the silica a lot of chert hard angular chert that made very sharp edges and

[00:35:06] as the

[00:35:08] Weathering happened and a landslide happened on this particular property a lot of angular

[00:35:14] Stone, so that was very gravelly and well-drained

[00:35:19] You're looking at this in the late 60s early 70s

[00:35:23] Exactly this was

[00:35:28] Actually backtracking a little bit I had

[00:35:34] Decided that I was going to do this business and

[00:35:40] So there had been an experimental vineyard planted in Santa Barbara on the Tepesque Mesa in the Santa Maria Valley a

[00:35:49] Person called Bill Demattei and Uriel Nielsen were grape growers from Delano and

[00:35:55] And

[00:35:58] Those days there were valley grapes which were mostly Thompson seedless and

[00:36:05] Table grapes and there were coastal wine grapes it wasn't much ever differentiation

[00:36:14] But the coastal wine grapes you could get 150 bucks a ton

[00:36:18] the Valley grapes $52 a ton and

[00:36:22] So these guys decided that they would experiment out here in this region

[00:36:28] with an experimental planting which became the Nielsen vineyard and

[00:36:35] So I turned my

[00:36:41] 9-11 Porsche in and got a Caterpillar tractor I

[00:36:48] Decided I would be in the wine business

[00:36:51] And I wasn't gonna wait for anything I had to get going

[00:36:55] and

[00:36:57] so I learned that

[00:36:59] grapes are grown from cuttings and

[00:37:03] You could buy a cutting for 10 cents and you could grow them into rootings and a rooting is worth 90 cents and

[00:37:14] So I thought to myself

[00:37:17] If I could get a bunch of cuttings and put them in the ground

[00:37:22] in nine months

[00:37:25] They'd be worth 90 cents

[00:37:29] So that was my inspiration to plant a

[00:37:33] nursery of

[00:37:35] Cuttings which I bought from the Nielsen vineyard

[00:37:39] and

[00:37:40] That vineyard had Riesling

[00:37:46] Chardonnay and Cabernet and

[00:37:51] Cabernet was a big grape in this area at that time as was Riesling

[00:37:59] So we planted those. I had a friend Norm Bacon who had the chandlery in Santa Barbara and a piece of land

[00:38:07] Here in the San Ynez Valley next to Buttonwood

[00:38:13] So we leased that land

[00:38:15] from Norm Bacon

[00:38:17] Actually, we never paid him

[00:38:20] He was gracious about that

[00:38:24] He saw our enthusiasm for what we were doing and he wanted to help

[00:38:28] So we had all of our friends our sailing friends come and we planted the cuttings into a nursery

[00:38:37] And this is pretty seat-of-the-pants learn as you go kind of thing, but

[00:38:42] miraculously

[00:38:44] If you plant a cutting

[00:38:47] Right side up it will grow don't want to plant them upside down

[00:38:53] And so that's why

[00:38:56] when you have a cutting you have

[00:38:59] One end that's angular and one that's flat so that you know which end to put in the ground

[00:39:07] So anyway, we had this little nursery going and it was kind of remarkable

[00:39:12] To see these buds popping and the grapes actually drawing from a stick that looked dead

[00:39:19] But what about the hot tub time machine?

[00:39:22] wine fermenters

[00:39:24] The open-top fermenters were not available in this country

[00:39:29] But my friend Gary Gordon had

[00:39:33] Created a hot tub company in Santa Barbara, and I found some American

[00:39:40] White oak that was quarter sawn that was important for barrel making

[00:39:45] And we actually made our fermenters in his hot tub factory

[00:39:50] We'll find out after the break

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[00:41:34] So then as the vineyard

[00:41:39] nursery began to perform

[00:41:42] We had to get busy trying to find the capital resources and to put these grapes into

[00:41:49] the vineyard

[00:41:52] And I had located this ranch

[00:41:55] The old bean farm and approached the owner

[00:42:01] Bill Kalfas who lived in Long Beach. He was an attorney

[00:42:07] He had purchased this old bean farm because the family the da Costa family needed to sell it for tax reasons

[00:42:16] So I did all my studies

[00:42:18] I went to the county to find out who the ownership was and did all my due diligence research

[00:42:24] as

[00:42:25] sort of basic as it was

[00:42:29] And we looked at all kinds of weather charts and

[00:42:34] tried to get some soil samples and just

[00:42:38] convince ourselves that this was an okay place to be and

[00:42:43] Then I'll always remember marching into this

[00:42:46] Office of Bill Kalfas and saying it you would like to buy your ranch and this is what we want to do

[00:42:55] That we would like to lease it

[00:42:57] For a period of time until we can get the vineyard established and we'll be upgrading the ranch in the meantime

[00:43:04] After which time we would like to have a lease option and

[00:43:11] So I think that again Bill Kalfas recognized our enthusiasm and

[00:43:19] Curiously at

[00:43:21] That time there were tax advantages to planting vineyards and for some reason

[00:43:28] citrus grows and cattle

[00:43:31] and

[00:43:32] I'm not so

[00:43:34] Sure how that came about

[00:43:36] But that was the perfect entree for us to go out and find potential investors to give them a tax write-off

[00:43:45] So now we had the vines

[00:43:50] The rootings

[00:43:52] We had the place

[00:43:54] But we just needed the money

[00:43:57] Because I didn't know

[00:44:03] $500 from $10,000, you know, I never had any money

[00:44:08] And finally I ended up

[00:44:11] Making my pitch to

[00:44:15] The wine committee at the LA Country Club and

[00:44:18] And

[00:44:21] Nice group of gentlemen a

[00:44:24] Very haram fee place. It was, you know, very intimidating

[00:44:30] But we went and gave our presentation

[00:44:34] And we were asking for a pitiful amount of money as it turns out we wanted to capitalize the school company on

[00:44:41] $300,000

[00:44:43] And our pro forma suggested that we would get a thousand dollars apiece as we got this thing going and

[00:44:50] Our involvement would be all sweat equity. This is you and Michael Benedict. Yes by that time Michael had joined me

[00:44:58] Michael had been the

[00:45:00] Director of the field station on Santa Cruz Island. He was a botanist. He had a background in botany

[00:45:08] so between his botany background and

[00:45:12] In my geography geology background who made we made a team I

[00:45:19] Did need someone to hold hands with through this experience because I couldn't just do it on my own frankly

[00:45:27] and we

[00:45:29] were able to make our presentation to these different people and

[00:45:35] Sure enough got their support. I

[00:45:38] Look back on the whole thing

[00:45:41] Levy and this ranch had never been electrified

[00:45:45] the da Costa

[00:45:48] family

[00:45:50] the old man

[00:45:53] Had no interest in the rural electrification program of America

[00:45:58] He didn't believe in electricity

[00:46:02] So this was a very basic place

[00:46:04] And

[00:46:06] We arrived there and it was just the perfect antidote for me after the Vietnam

[00:46:11] experience that this is where I wanted to be and needed to be in nature and

[00:46:17] So we could throw ourselves into this effort 100% and

[00:46:26] We worked long long days I drove a lot a lot of miles on a tractor and

[00:46:35] It was really hard work

[00:46:39] and we thought at that time we could do dry farming here because in

[00:46:44] Northern California they did dry farming and

[00:46:48] so the vineyard was planted on the hillside those days we planted east and west because

[00:46:54] you want to be planning into the wind to protect the vines and

[00:47:00] We did not put trellises in

[00:47:03] We planted the vineyard because we didn't really

[00:47:07] Couldn't afford the trellises at that time and

[00:47:11] So we had to do what we could when we needed to

[00:47:16] And you bought out the young plants in basins

[00:47:20] For the water truck I called it the Mariposa because it had wings that went out in

[00:47:27] Two inch pipe

[00:47:29] 1200 gallon water truck

[00:47:31] we bought the water actually never paid for it again, but

[00:47:36] The wonderful man Bill Cooper who owned the Rancho Lavinia next door allowed us to use his well

[00:47:43] where we'd go and fill the water truck and

[00:47:47] Jesus one of our workers would drive up to the top of the hill and drive down

[00:47:54] in those days the rows were quite wide because that's the way we planted vineyards in California and

[00:48:01] Our pattern was in California agriculture not European at that time and

[00:48:08] So it was a laborious way

[00:48:11] to

[00:48:13] water I

[00:48:14] Think maybe 40 acres is our first planting. It was a lot of grapes to farm ourselves

[00:48:21] In the meantime as we were getting that vineyard established in the great varieties that we had

[00:48:29] We really wanted to grow the Pinot Noir in Chardonnay and

[00:48:36] There were not any

[00:48:40] Pinot Noir

[00:48:41] clones available at that time in this region

[00:48:44] But Carl Winty was a wonderful

[00:48:48] grape propagator in

[00:48:51] Livermore

[00:48:53] So we made a deal with Carl Winty

[00:48:57] to provide some

[00:48:59] Grapes for us for the future planting for the next year

[00:49:04] So this would have been

[00:49:07] 1970 that we planted the nursery in 1971. We were prepared to then

[00:49:13] plant the vineyard in

[00:49:16] 1972 we were planting the Carl Winty's clones of Pinot Noir and the Winty Chardonnay and

[00:49:25] The clones that we chose were

[00:49:29] the Mount Eden clone that had been brought to this country by Paul Masson

[00:49:35] when he was a person before he was a corporation and

[00:49:42] The

[00:49:44] something called Napagamee and

[00:49:49] It is a very upright clone, but it made we thought gosh we could make early wine like a

[00:49:55] Beaujolais and have it available early and get some cash flow going

[00:50:01] because after

[00:50:03] Four years of doing this we desperately needed to sell something

[00:50:08] But it turned out that the Napagamee was so good. We just called it Pinot Noir and bottled it

[00:50:17] There was an old barn on the property

[00:50:22] And

[00:50:24] And and I always remember that in 1975 finally had a small production

[00:50:32] From our young vineyard and made a barrel and a half of wine

[00:50:38] And it was quite rudimentary and we were learning about winemaking at that time and

[00:50:45] It turned out so delicious that we decided we needed to convert

[00:50:51] this barn into a winemaking facility and

[00:50:56] So at that time we brought on an additional partner and that was mr. Claire Peck

[00:51:03] He had CL Peck contractor in Los Angeles

[00:51:06] His company built the Bonaventure Hotel and some of the big

[00:51:11] downtown

[00:51:12] large buildings, but he was a great partner because he had the

[00:51:17] Contracting experiences he gave us a pickup truck

[00:51:22] used of course

[00:51:24] So

[00:51:26] We needed to outfit this barn with winemaking equipment and

[00:51:32] I began to research

[00:51:35] The traditions of Burgundy and how wine was made and

[00:51:43] Learned in Burgundy they used open-top fermenters and

[00:51:48] Mostly barrels for aging and needed a cool cellar

[00:51:52] This old barn

[00:51:55] Didn't have any refrigeration there wasn't any electricity

[00:52:00] but we had springs on the property and

[00:52:03] so we piped the springs into a

[00:52:09] Misting

[00:52:11] system that misted water over the roof and

[00:52:15] He eat of evaporation

[00:52:18] Cooled the roof

[00:52:20] To make it cool inside for winemaking and storage the open-top fermenters were not available in this country

[00:52:30] But my friend Gary Gordon had

[00:52:33] Created a hot tub company in Santa Barbara, and I found some American

[00:52:41] White oak that was quarter sawn that was important for barrel making

[00:52:46] And we actually made our fermenters in his hot tub factory

[00:52:52] That was a really wonderful experience to be actually crafting our own fermenters we bought an old press

[00:53:02] From a juice company

[00:53:06] It was a Apple press

[00:53:09] And we had our fermenters in our press

[00:53:14] And we bought some barrels by then I had become good friends of Dick Graff who was

[00:53:21] responsible

[00:53:22] for the Shalom

[00:53:26] Winery and the development of the Shalom brand

[00:53:30] He became a good friend and

[00:53:36] He was importing Sarug barrels at the time because French oak was not really used much in California I

[00:53:46] think Hanzel

[00:53:48] Was using French oak

[00:53:51] Most of the oak used in Napa at that time was American oak and

[00:54:00] We bought some Sarug barrels in

[00:54:04] 1976

[00:54:08] Made our first

[00:54:10] wine

[00:54:11] And it was really exciting to have our harvest

[00:54:16] we made the error of

[00:54:20] inviting all our friends to come to the harvest that

[00:54:23] lasted about half a day a

[00:54:26] First harvest for Sanford and Benedict and

[00:54:29] the first visit from the police

[00:54:33] So as we broke for lunch

[00:54:37] there came the sheriff's car up the driveway and

[00:54:43] the sheriff came

[00:54:45] And approached me rather sheepishly

[00:54:48] And he said I've had a complaint that's after this message

[00:54:55] Alessandro

[00:54:56] Massanegheti has produced the very best maps of classic wine regions available today and

[00:55:03] I remember speaking to Alessandro about the level of focus he brings to his work

[00:55:10] When I make this

[00:55:12] this mapping

[00:55:14] Usually I don't go to the vineyards with a producer. I want to be there alone and

[00:55:21] I want them to see me that I am alone in the venue because I

[00:55:31] Want to know something more than them

[00:55:36] On the vineyards I want to show

[00:55:39] Them that I love this region so much then I knew every

[00:55:45] Every single row of vineyards every single detail

[00:55:49] The updated third edition of Alessandro's Barolo MGA book is a treasure trove of hard-to-find information

[00:55:57] And is now available for purchase if you go to rare wine co co

[00:56:03] calm forward slash maps go to rare wine co co

[00:56:09] calm forward slash maps with an s to own the definitive mapping of Barolo vineyards

[00:56:16] We had a wonderful group of friends

[00:56:20] and our neighbor

[00:56:22] Irene Donovan was an old school marm and

[00:56:26] a busybody

[00:56:27] So as we broke for lunch

[00:56:34] there came the sheriff's car up the driveway and the sheriff came and

[00:56:42] Approached me rather sheepishly

[00:56:45] And he said I've had a complaint

[00:56:51] Mrs. Donovan has reported

[00:56:53] There were naked people running around in the vineyard

[00:56:57] Well, our friends thought you know, what'd be fun just to get naked and that's why you should

[00:57:02] pick grapes

[00:57:05] Well, they weren't professional pickers or professional anything. They were just kids and

[00:57:11] having fun

[00:57:13] So I had to explain people that they had to keep their clothes on

[00:57:18] But it was pretty funny and he was rather he chuckled at the thing and I said well we'll pay more attention in the future

[00:57:26] Subsequently, of course it became

[00:57:29] Better to hire people to come and harvest the grapes and be professional about it

[00:57:36] So

[00:57:38] About that same time I had bet

[00:57:42] My wife to be Tecla and so she arrived on the scene just in time for the first harvest

[00:57:48] You met pretty much totally by chance

[00:57:51] The valley was really remote. It was kind of empty of any kind of culture at that time

[00:58:00] And so I would go to Santa Barbara

[00:58:04] For sailing and on Saturdays we would have our serious racing

[00:58:08] But on Wednesdays we would invite our girlfriends and go for a fun sail

[00:58:13] So I had this old

[00:58:16] diesel Mercedes

[00:58:20] 1959 diesel car on my way to Santa Barbara and

[00:58:26] My fan belt broke

[00:58:29] So I cruised into El Capitan the park there the state park

[00:58:36] And asked the ranger if I could leave my car there and

[00:58:39] Luckily, the ranger was going to Santa Barbara. They just gotten off duty

[00:58:44] And gave me a ride right to the harbor and I went out on the

[00:58:50] pier and

[00:58:52] The boat that I sailed on was going out to sea at that time and I waved to them and

[00:58:58] My friend said there's Sanford should we pick him up and

[00:59:01] My wife-to-be was on the boat and she said yeah pick him up

[00:59:07] So luckily I got on board the boat and she was with a different person at that time

[00:59:13] But that was my meeting of my wife Tecla and it was really magical

[00:59:19] So she came up for the very first vintage

[00:59:23] And I always remember making the Vangri together

[00:59:26] And the idea was to have a wine that you could sell early

[00:59:32] and I always remember romancing her with the

[00:59:36] Fermenting Vangri in a plastic milk jug

[00:59:41] Sitting on the hillside having this

[00:59:46] Effortless conversation and I remember

[00:59:49] Plastic milk jug sitting on the hillside having this

[00:59:56] Effervescent wonderful wine that we had created and

[01:00:01] There was a strawberry character to it. It was just really magical

[01:00:05] That was an epitome

[01:00:07] She encouraged you to go organic

[01:00:11] You know when we

[01:00:14] Started the vineyard

[01:00:16] We were using conventional agriculture because that's what you did

[01:00:20] agriculture of the time and the convention and she came along and

[01:00:27] She said Richard. Why don't you grow the grapes organically?

[01:00:32] She'd come from the Midwest her family had a

[01:00:35] Dairy farm and they were all organic

[01:00:38] And so I'm not sure that can happen that we could do that

[01:00:41] But little by little I recognize it. You know what all these chemicals

[01:00:49] Were only developed after the Second World War

[01:00:55] How are they doing this before the war?

[01:00:58] They've been doing this for a thousand years

[01:01:02] How did they do it so I begin to research

[01:01:06] And discovered you know what why not?

[01:01:12] and

[01:01:13] Everybody said well that's not gonna work because you need to do this and that and I said, you know what?

[01:01:18] We have to be more inventive and that we will work toward that end

[01:01:25] It cost a little bit more

[01:01:28] But we didn't have the expense of the chemicals

[01:01:33] So an article had been written about you that drew attention

[01:01:37] To the success of the Pinot Noir especially of Sanford and Benedict and that article came out in 1978

[01:01:44] There

[01:01:46] Was some noise about this first wines we were making in

[01:01:52] 1976

[01:01:54] Pinot Noir and you know at that time we weren't marketing anything

[01:02:01] But people just came up the driveway they heard about it

[01:02:05] and

[01:02:06] so finally

[01:02:09] Robert Lawrence Balzer wrote in his

[01:02:14] newsletter

[01:02:17] Grand Cru in Alampoke Barn

[01:02:20] That was the article

[01:02:23] That was the bell ringer that that really told people about what was going on in our place

[01:02:28] I think that this inspired other people to plant in our region

[01:02:36] It had been pretty lonely out there for many years, you know from in the early 70s

[01:02:42] And I'll always remember

[01:02:46] At Sanford and Benedict

[01:02:49] Being invited to bring

[01:02:53] my wine to a tasting at the California Vintage Wine Society and

[01:03:00] I was invited to the California Club in downtown Los Angeles

[01:03:05] Which at that time was a pretty hrumphy red leather

[01:03:09] cigar smoke place it was a

[01:03:13] Little bit stuffy at the time it's changed now there are they allow women

[01:03:19] But

[01:03:21] I'm invited to come and present the wine so I arrived and

[01:03:30] Am ushered into

[01:03:32] This immense ballroom. I don't know if you know the place, but it's a beautifully designed structure brick

[01:03:40] and

[01:03:41] They have a beautiful

[01:03:44] main ballroom with chandeliers and

[01:03:47] white tablecloths and I

[01:03:50] Come into this space and I'm completely intimidated with

[01:03:54] the chandeliers and it's just little me and all these harumping people and

[01:04:02] So we sit down and the wine is poured

[01:04:07] There's a lot of swirling and sniffing and gargling

[01:04:13] Then all of a sudden someone says

[01:04:16] son of a bitch and

[01:04:19] I thought to myself. Oh, they don't like my wine

[01:04:24] But I soon learned it was a term of endearment

[01:04:27] This was Hernando Courtright. I believe who was the owner of the Beverly Hills Hotel

[01:04:34] And he said finally a Burgundy from California

[01:04:38] and I still have tears about that because

[01:04:42] that was

[01:04:44] really the culmination of

[01:04:46] All that

[01:04:48] ten years of effort to get the vineyard established and I had my communication with Dick Kraft and he was involved in

[01:04:58] Shalom

[01:05:00] there were other

[01:05:01] wine makers

[01:05:04] Who

[01:05:06] were new and

[01:05:10] Dick created something quite special called the small winery technical society

[01:05:16] a big deal name for a small little group of young winemakers

[01:05:23] but we would get together a

[01:05:26] Couple of times a year to taste each other's wines and give our critical opinion

[01:05:36] Without being nasty and this group included Jeffrey Patterson Ken Wright Steve Dorner Josh Jensen

[01:05:43] These were all people who were interested in Pinot Noir

[01:05:46] and we all became comrades and there was a really interesting and

[01:05:52] curious and continues to this day

[01:05:55] Levy about

[01:05:57] Wine makers and

[01:05:59] the

[01:06:01] camaraderie that we all have and

[01:06:03] Or out for the same goal, but we are competitors, too

[01:06:08] So it's a curious

[01:06:10] Situation to be competitors and love one another and

[01:06:15] and

[01:06:17] sometimes creates tension, but generally

[01:06:21] We all shared information together and we wanted each other

[01:06:26] To succeed it was a wonderful period of time because we were pretty innocent about

[01:06:35] stuff

[01:06:37] It wasn't high pressure

[01:06:40] Wasn't corporate it was just

[01:06:43] some people were passionate about what they were doing and trying to do the best job that could and

[01:06:51] To this day I'm friends with them all

[01:06:56] And it was especially close to Josh Jensen and

[01:07:03] We would have wonderful times together our families we get together with our kids

[01:07:08] And it was a really magical time for us building our businesses and

[01:07:15] Having the challenges of marketing the wine and so forth

[01:07:21] along this period

[01:07:24] Dick Graff called me one day and said

[01:07:29] Richard I have some people coming to visit and

[01:07:33] They're Francophiles

[01:07:37] They don't really believe in California wine

[01:07:40] But I need to show them what's happening here in California, we've got to change their focus and opinion

[01:07:47] And I said, okay just bring them by

[01:07:51] It turned out it was Julia and Paul child

[01:07:56] Julia just come back

[01:08:00] From France she was settling in Cambridge

[01:08:04] Coming out to California to take a look because her family had been from Pasadena and she had experience in Santa Barbara

[01:08:13] as a child

[01:08:14] So I went home to my wife who had a two-year-old

[01:08:21] Hanging on her apron and I said guess who's coming to lunch

[01:08:27] And when I said Julia child she almost dropped

[01:08:30] And here

[01:08:33] Julia as we know her now would have been

[01:08:37] happy with a peanut butter sandwich, but

[01:08:40] We did it all up as it was everything was overdone. I was trying so hard

[01:08:47] But the serious thing is

[01:08:50] That dick was able to show

[01:08:53] his wines and

[01:08:55] our sandwiches

[01:08:57] His wines and our Sanford and Benedict wines

[01:09:03] To their great acclaim we changed their perception of American wine at that time I feel

[01:09:12] Julia became very close friends with us

[01:09:16] She would come to our house on the ranch for Christmas dinner

[01:09:21] And we had a wonderful relationship together

[01:09:24] And a great spokesperson for us and

[01:09:29] supporter

[01:09:31] And we became very involved in the American Institute of wine and food together

[01:09:37] But she and Paul

[01:09:42] curse Paul

[01:09:43] faltered and developed

[01:09:47] Some issues and had to go into a home

[01:09:51] and we became

[01:09:53] And we became

[01:09:55] close to Julia and she would come to our house and we would visit her and then

[01:10:00] she went in herself to a

[01:10:03] place in Santa Barbara where we would visit her and

[01:10:08] Tecla was with her in the last moments of her life. So we had a wonderful long relationship

[01:10:16] But it was out of that little meeting and

[01:10:19] Through her you met the Mondavis

[01:10:22] Bob Mondavi was very interested in creating a degree in gastronomy

[01:10:29] And I was asked to participate with them

[01:10:33] In the creation of the American Institute of wine and food

[01:10:39] And that was going to be the vehicle for creating

[01:10:43] A degree in gastronomy

[01:10:48] and we would have meetings and

[01:10:51] And

[01:10:53] It was the whole thing was to develop an appreciation for food and wine

[01:10:58] independent of

[01:11:01] Just having it for fun that there was some seriousness about it and some

[01:11:10] Academic

[01:11:13] Pursuits in gastronomy and food and wine. I always remember our motto was

[01:11:21] Inter folia fructos

[01:11:24] Between the leaves is the honey or is the the sweetness

[01:11:30] We met Robert

[01:11:32] and Margaret when they came down for a meeting at Julia's. Julia did a

[01:11:39] series of

[01:11:40] tapes in Santa Barbara

[01:11:42] Called dinner with Julia where she would invite

[01:11:45] Guest chefs to come and prepare food and then

[01:11:49] Go through all the different dishes that she would prepare and we'd have a big dinner at the end

[01:11:55] And I was actually interviewed in one of her programs

[01:12:00] And she had this

[01:12:02] interesting

[01:12:05] Kitchen with the chefs

[01:12:08] then a discussion about wine and then

[01:12:11] The dinner together with the chefs and the winemakers

[01:12:15] Enjoying food together. It was a fun

[01:12:18] period

[01:12:20] to be with

[01:12:23] Sort of on the front end of food, I think this was the time

[01:12:29] Alice waters was developing her shape on these and

[01:12:34] Michael mccarty was very active in his michael's restaurant

[01:12:39] And gastronomy was really coming in to its own

[01:12:45] It's all kind of glittery, you know, it was just sort of a wonderful period

[01:12:51] That food was coming of age in america that we had been

[01:12:56] In a war situation before then and people didn't really understand

[01:13:02] food

[01:13:03] But we were on the cutting edge of some really special stuff happening

[01:13:09] It was fun. It was really fun to be there at that time

[01:13:15] But the reality is is it is a hard business

[01:13:19] The vineyard you've been talking about up until now is sanford and benedict is what it's called today

[01:13:23] But subsequently over several decades you planted

[01:13:27] Nearby and then in the region other vineyards and totaling that's about 400 acres. Yes

[01:13:35] Well

[01:13:40] It was an exciting time and there was growth potential and there was land

[01:13:47] And it's been a challenge

[01:13:52] Levy that uh, we had this experience at sanford and benedict and then

[01:13:59] After a few years of wine making together it turned out it was very hard to make wine by committee with a partner

[01:14:06] And

[01:14:08] So I decided

[01:14:11] that I couldn't continue with my partner, mr. Benedict and

[01:14:19] i'll always

[01:14:20] remember returning home in tears to my wife saying

[01:14:25] It's just not going to work out and it was really a divorce

[01:14:31] But it was a deep-seated feeling because so much of my

[01:14:37] Soul

[01:14:39] Was in that vineyard

[01:14:41] I where I lived there and I had established the vineyard

[01:14:45] And loved the place

[01:14:47] And had great confidence in it, but

[01:14:51] Couldn't get along with the partner

[01:14:53] So just for example you lived there for seven years with no electricity with gas lamps and you

[01:14:58] Yourself was the one that put in the telephone line

[01:15:00] You did own rooted dry farms, which was not the easiest thing to do in terms of dry farming california originally

[01:15:07] And then you moved it to organics and you did things like mix peanut butter with pieces of soil

[01:15:13] To try to attract ants to get rid of mealy bugs. You're pretty experimental

[01:15:18] and then you had

[01:15:20] a breakdown in communication with your partner in the founding of this now iconic vineyard and you decided there needed to be a change

[01:15:27] And you decided there needed to be a change

[01:15:31] It was tragic it was really hard

[01:15:34] One of the hardest things ever ever done

[01:15:37] Is to leave that place?

[01:15:41] And I would go back to that vineyard

[01:15:44] in the meantime

[01:15:46] we just had to

[01:15:49] Pick ourselves up dust ourselves off and get going again

[01:15:54] In my own personal development. I had developed a great interest in eastern philosophy

[01:16:02] As you remember I had given up on on my culture and my religion so

[01:16:08] finding myself quite spiritual

[01:16:10] I began to

[01:16:12] participate in tai chi. I was enamored by

[01:16:16] Tai chi the moving meditation

[01:16:19] And I would go to esalen esalen

[01:16:23] You remember the human potential movement?

[01:16:26] And I would study with chung liang wong

[01:16:29] Who was a tai chi master?

[01:16:34] Chung liang was a very good friend of alan watts

[01:16:39] Who wrote a book called the water course way it's been very important to me that

[01:16:45] Really in my life when I come across conflicts

[01:16:50] I think about water moving and how water works. It goes around the obstructions

[01:16:57] rather than through

[01:17:00] When you have an obstruction

[01:17:04] You just have to deal with it and go around it

[01:17:08] Leaving california for a voyage to burgundy

[01:17:12] and

[01:17:13] probably one of the finest

[01:17:15] days of winemaking in my life was when

[01:17:19] I asked pam if I could have an introduction to vincent lafleve

[01:17:25] And he was probably my age at that time

[01:17:27] And I went to be with him for an entire day

[01:17:32] And learned so much in one day from that master

[01:17:37] We'll hear the lessons learned in burgundy in just a moment

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[01:18:45] In between your leaving sanford and benedict winery and being separated with sanford and benedict the vineyard

[01:18:52] And then subsequently starting the sanford winery

[01:18:56] You met the sister of a barrel broker whose name was roz

[01:19:03] Jim boswell was a barrel broker at that time

[01:19:08] Roz was a wine broker

[01:19:10] Roswell was a barrel broker at that time

[01:19:15] Roz

[01:19:17] Is jim's sister?

[01:19:19] She happened to be married to jacques sess

[01:19:24] And so that gave us entree

[01:19:27] to a burgundy connection

[01:19:29] In meeting jacques s we were able to go into the cellars of those people and understand more about winemaking

[01:19:37] I was able to check out

[01:19:42] different practices

[01:19:44] in the meantime

[01:19:47] Julia had come to dinner and

[01:19:51] It turned out that pam de valen

[01:19:55] His family grew up in pasadena

[01:19:59] And they were friends of julia

[01:20:02] So we had a dinner in santa barbara and invited julia

[01:20:07] pam's mother

[01:20:08] So pam and aubert de belen came for dinner

[01:20:12] And so that became our connection with burgundy

[01:20:18] No better connection than that to get started

[01:20:21] and so

[01:20:23] Again, it was a magical experience to be connected with these

[01:20:27] wonderful people and you know the thing about the wine business is that

[01:20:33] There are a lot of really interesting and wonderful people involved

[01:20:38] And we became friends with them all and went to

[01:20:43] demend the roman economy and

[01:20:46] had a fabulous tasting and

[01:20:49] Went to their home and enjoyed being together

[01:20:53] In bouzeran, they had just moved to bouseran and

[01:20:57] He was growing ala goete in bouseran it was delicious wine

[01:21:04] and

[01:21:05] probably one of the finest

[01:21:07] days of wine making in my life was when

[01:21:11] I asked pam if I could have an introduction to vincent le fleuve

[01:21:16] And he was probably my age at that time

[01:21:21] And I went to be with him for an entire day

[01:21:25] And learned so much in one day from that master

[01:21:31] Him climbing up on his tanks

[01:21:34] To draw out some of the most beautiful chardonnay wine for me to try and this is still main le fleuve

[01:21:40] And it was just inspirational and can you continues?

[01:21:44] Actually gives me tears to think about it was so special

[01:21:51] Specifically what do you think you picked up from vincent le fleuve in terms of wine making and what do you think you picked up?

[01:21:56] from jock stace in terms of winemaking

[01:21:59] I understood uh from

[01:22:03] Vincent le fleuve the importance of fining

[01:22:07] And natural fining and milk finding because we hadn't done milk finding before

[01:22:12] And i'm a fan of that

[01:22:15] from jock says I recognized

[01:22:19] In his cellars in demain du jacques, there was a hole in the ground in the cellar as a sump

[01:22:29] Where the gravity

[01:22:31] Flow the wine into the sump

[01:22:36] And I always wrestled with that because I was a fan of gravity

[01:22:42] And that really became the inspiration

[01:22:44] when I built sanford winery

[01:22:47] to have these

[01:22:50] Giant tanks on elevator shafts that would go up and down

[01:22:56] I call it an infinite gravity machine

[01:23:00] because

[01:23:01] The wine would go from the cellar into the sump

[01:23:05] And then elevated to the second floor and then drained back into

[01:23:11] The shea the barrel room

[01:23:13] And to this day sanford winery creates a gravity flow wine

[01:23:19] And it's quite special for pinot noir because

[01:23:23] Unlike cabernet, which will take some rough treatment and

[01:23:29] pumping around

[01:23:32] Pinot noir tends to bruise easily

[01:23:35] And I always like to be gentle with the wine

[01:23:38] So this is sanford the winery that you started that's in the same general area as the sanford and benedict

[01:23:45] vineyard

[01:23:46] And you did this in the 80s

[01:23:49] When we left sanford and benedict

[01:23:55] I

[01:23:56] Returned home to tecla and said that this isn't working out

[01:24:02] But the sanford and benedict vineyard became an obsession with me and I would go and visit it every day

[01:24:09] And saw it go into decline

[01:24:13] And

[01:24:15] Tecla said you've got to leave it alone if it's

[01:24:18] going to come back to you it will but

[01:24:22] You just have to give it up

[01:24:24] and i've learned in life that

[01:24:27] There are some things that you really have to work on giving up

[01:24:31] And moving on

[01:24:33] So finally I gave up and moved on

[01:24:37] And curiously

[01:24:40] as we were

[01:24:42] trying to prepare ourselves to

[01:24:45] Plant some additional vineyards on an adjoining ranch

[01:24:49] When I left sanford and benedict there were grapes to buy so we could start buying grapes to be in business

[01:24:56] When I started sanford and benedict there weren't any grapes. So we had to create our own

[01:25:00] grapes

[01:25:03] But by then there were enough vineyards and I knew all the vineyard growers

[01:25:07] And I could select some of the finest that I knew

[01:25:10] to make our wines

[01:25:13] But I still wanted to continue developing

[01:25:17] Vineyards and build a winery

[01:25:20] So there was a ranch next to sanford and benedict called the renny ranch

[01:25:26] And I became a partner with the renny family

[01:25:30] And then I was able to develop vineyards on that property that's called the

[01:25:35] ranconada ranch

[01:25:37] Which adjoined sanford and joined sanford and benedict some of the hillside is similar soil and material

[01:25:44] All that wonderful shirt gravelly

[01:25:48] Gravel clay loom

[01:25:51] And an english gentleman who had gone to school at berkeley

[01:25:54] Expressed some interest to you about a project

[01:25:57] There was a gentleman

[01:26:01] Named robert atkin who had gone to berkeley

[01:26:05] He was from london

[01:26:08] And he had abilities

[01:26:11] with money

[01:26:13] and he came

[01:26:15] looking

[01:26:16] to invest

[01:26:18] In a winery

[01:26:20] In in a vineyard

[01:26:23] And I thought

[01:26:24] Hmm, what a perfect timing

[01:26:28] Because we were developing sanford winery in the vineyard at the time. We had not built the winery yet

[01:26:34] And we needed a partner

[01:26:37] So I made the pitch I went to london we became close friends with robert and janice

[01:26:45] And we would go to london and go to the bar mitzvah and bat mitzvah of theirs

[01:26:51] And had a wonderful time and experience together

[01:26:55] And I made my pro formas and put them together

[01:27:01] In the meantime said robert there is a vineyard here that you should be aware of

[01:27:08] That um could potentially be for sale

[01:27:15] And by that time it was 10 years after my separation with

[01:27:20] Mr. Benedict it had not gone well

[01:27:25] so

[01:27:26] I became

[01:27:29] The quiet

[01:27:31] silent negotiator

[01:27:33] For robert in the purchase of the sanford and benedict vineyard

[01:27:39] and

[01:27:41] It was astonishing

[01:27:44] Levy after having left that place 10 years later

[01:27:48] To have it returned to me

[01:27:51] I mean it was astounding

[01:27:54] And it just

[01:27:57] Went to show me that tecla was right and she said

[01:28:00] If it's meant to be it will happen

[01:28:04] And was sort of magical that we had

[01:28:07] those grapes

[01:28:08] To use in our own mind making

[01:28:11] for the next 30 years

[01:28:15] and so I continued to develop the

[01:28:18] Vineyards there and then thought you know with all these vineyards. Why don't we have the winery?

[01:28:23] Here in the meantime tecla and I had purchased a

[01:28:26] Ranch down the road

[01:28:30] that

[01:28:31] We felt we were going to build a winery on but with all the grapes

[01:28:35] Around the sanford and benedict vineyard. We thought well the binary should be in that location

[01:28:42] So that became

[01:28:45] My effort in trying to figure out how I wanted my winery to be

[01:28:52] And I wanted to use all natural material that came from the place i'm really interested in

[01:29:01] using

[01:29:02] native materials

[01:29:04] From the place rather than importing a bunch of stuff for the construction of the physical space physical structure

[01:29:10] construction

[01:29:12] And

[01:29:14] So I took two years to

[01:29:18] Plan and design this space

[01:29:21] Thing about how I wanted to make it

[01:29:26] so I

[01:29:27] am enamored by

[01:29:29] the mission period not what they did to the

[01:29:32] Native people, but just

[01:29:34] the technology they created these

[01:29:37] beautiful structures

[01:29:39] Out of thin air. They were just right from the place

[01:29:44] So I went to arizona and studied adobe

[01:29:48] making

[01:29:49] And that was a fun experience to figure out

[01:29:52] The technology of making an adobe structure

[01:29:56] earthquake proof in our region

[01:30:00] And so

[01:30:02] Truly we ended up making a hundred thousand adobe block

[01:30:06] Right there on the ranch and I learned that adobe was largely

[01:30:10] sand

[01:30:12] That it was held together by a clay matrix

[01:30:16] So

[01:30:18] I was lucky enough to find

[01:30:21] An old mill in clickitat, washington

[01:30:26] And I was looking for

[01:30:28] timber for timber frame structure

[01:30:33] So all the roof are these beautiful purlins and beams made from

[01:30:41] Lumber that we purchased from the mill in clickitat, washington

[01:30:46] 62

[01:30:47] semis with timber

[01:30:50] came to deposit

[01:30:52] at the

[01:30:54] Sanford winery and each of the truckers said

[01:30:58] that

[01:30:59] People he had encountered along the road had offered to buy the timbers from him

[01:31:07] I bought

[01:31:09] A wood-mizer sawmill

[01:31:12] On the property to mill

[01:31:16] The material into our specifications

[01:31:19] It was really an exciting time

[01:31:22] But I got a bit ahead of myself

[01:31:25] and the winery

[01:31:27] Turned out cost twice as much as I had planned

[01:31:32] I had sanford you made sanford and benedict

[01:31:36] Vineyard chardonnay and pina noir to some acclaim

[01:31:40] And you also made a sauvignon blanc to some acclaim

[01:31:44] The sauvignon blanc

[01:31:46] was

[01:31:47] an opportunity to have a second white wine because

[01:31:51] all of our vineyards

[01:31:53] Were chardonnay or pina noir

[01:32:00] and

[01:32:02] So I was able to purchase some wonderful sauvignon blanc from the sierra madre vineyard

[01:32:07] in santa maria

[01:32:10] And we made

[01:32:12] A lot of sauvignon blanc and it went very well. It sold beautifully

[01:32:18] Until about 1985

[01:32:22] And it's curious in our region, you know, there was a lot of development in

[01:32:27] vineyard activity

[01:32:30] When I started out levy there were

[01:32:34] People who were making investments in vineyard development

[01:32:39] There were butcher paper signs in

[01:32:42] Los Angeles

[01:32:44] windows vineyard investment

[01:32:47] 80 right off the first year

[01:32:50] So a lot of doctors and lawyers and people were

[01:32:54] business people

[01:32:56] Of course, they would invest because there were all these losses available

[01:33:01] Well grape growing is a long-term deal. And so when these vineyards were planted

[01:33:08] And they didn't produce up to the expectation and generally

[01:33:13] I think that's true that the vineyard never produces as much as you want in the early years

[01:33:18] It cost a lot more

[01:33:21] And so when there was a call that came out for more investment

[01:33:26] The investors had taken their right off. They were not interested in investing anymore

[01:33:32] And so a lot of the vineyards went to the funding agency

[01:33:36] And so a lot of the vineyards went to the funding agencies and it turned out that

[01:33:41] The largest owners of vineyards in santa barbara county were prudential life insurance and bank of america

[01:33:50] And they held on they did not want to be in the

[01:33:53] great business

[01:33:56] And in the meantime

[01:33:58] In the late 70s and early 80s

[01:34:01] With all this beautiful chardonnay that was planted in this region

[01:34:06] The napa wineries became aware and would be buying all of our grapes

[01:34:14] Frankly to upgrade the quality of their wines

[01:34:18] Until such time as the demand came

[01:34:22] And the price was correct

[01:34:24] for these

[01:34:25] funding agencies

[01:34:27] To sell the vineyards and there was one year. I think it was 85

[01:34:34] that robert mondavi

[01:34:36] kendall jackson

[01:34:37] in beringer came and purchased all the vineyards that were available from the

[01:34:42] life insurance companies

[01:34:46] And I always remember

[01:34:48] Calling tim mondavi to ask if I could buy

[01:34:52] A pitiful amount of sauvignon blanc to keep my program at sanford going

[01:34:59] In which he said we view you as a competitor now richard

[01:35:04] And so he didn't sell any grapes

[01:35:07] And so that was a struggle for us to keep our sauvignon blanc program going

[01:35:15] But we had to be resourceful and we went out and find additional fruit, but you do that and

[01:35:24] You know

[01:35:25] after all the planting that had happened and I was

[01:35:28] knowledgeable about all the different

[01:35:31] Vineyardists I was able to purchase fruit from some very high quality vineyards

[01:35:37] And that even today is really remarkable to have such beautiful grapes

[01:35:42] So that anybody

[01:35:44] Can purchase grapes and be in the wine business. It's easy

[01:35:50] It's harder to stay in the wine business

[01:35:53] And robert told you, you know, that's a good wine but it takes a while to build a brand I have to say

[01:36:01] I was so nervous

[01:36:03] I had to meet robert mondavi because he was such a

[01:36:08] force

[01:36:10] He was very nice to us and we went to lunch together and I brought my sauvignon blanc that we had made

[01:36:18] and

[01:36:19] He said I like your wine very much richard

[01:36:23] But it will take you 20 years to build the brand

[01:36:27] And I said, oh no

[01:36:30] What do you know you old man

[01:36:33] I always laugh at that because I was a youngster

[01:36:37] And sure enough he was right it took 20 years to build the brand

[01:36:43] So you worked with sanford and benedict fruit for about three decades

[01:36:47] And you also sold some of that fruit to other producers who made wine and you made an arrangement with them to taste those wines

[01:36:55] 91 92 you'd get together with the other producers of sanford benedict fruit

[01:36:59] And you would talk about how it was going for them and how it was going for you

[01:37:03] And levy when I got the vineyard back finally

[01:37:08] I recognized that

[01:37:10] We really did need to establish irrigation in the vineyard. It wasn't it wasn't working to dry farm it

[01:37:19] In the meantime some of the producers in our region been purchasing grapes

[01:37:26] And uh when I got the vineyard back

[01:37:29] They said well can't we have a few grapes

[01:37:33] Because they had recognized the quality of the grapes coming from the vineyard

[01:37:38] And I was kind of a jerk about it. Frankly. I said, you know what?

[01:37:44] I planted these grapes. I haven't had them for 10 years

[01:37:48] These are my grapes and i'm gonna i'm going to use them in our wine making

[01:37:53] And finally

[01:37:56] Tecla said oh

[01:37:58] Won't you sell so and so actually frank costini at ten and a half or something?

[01:38:04] and frank

[01:38:05] Actually would say to this day that

[01:38:08] He appreciates tecla so much allowing him to buy some fruit, but I finally recognized that

[01:38:15] Here was an opportunity

[01:38:17] to create

[01:38:19] What we had in our small

[01:38:21] Villa winery technical society the same concept to have

[01:38:26] I chose six different

[01:38:28] winemakers

[01:38:30] To sell grapes to but the stipulation that we would get together quarterly

[01:38:39] And talk about wine making together

[01:38:42] Teach each other of wines

[01:38:44] Without being offensive. Just say how you felt about it

[01:38:48] and

[01:38:50] Some winemakers were struggling they had some challenges, but they learned I think from that experience how to overcome them

[01:38:58] So it was really a wonderful period a couple years to get together and talk about it

[01:39:05] Then it became a little bit more difficult as time went on

[01:39:10] And we kind of drifted apart

[01:39:12] What do you think you learned about sanford and benedict fruit in white and red?

[01:39:18] Over the period of time that you worked with the fruit from the sanford and benedict vineyard

[01:39:23] The thing about

[01:39:24] Our growing area in the santa beria hills

[01:39:29] With the cooler climate and the coastal fogs

[01:39:35] And

[01:39:37] The pacific ocean

[01:39:40] Is only nine miles to the south and about 14 miles to the west

[01:39:45] So we were

[01:39:47] Really protected by the pacific ocean

[01:39:51] fogs come in the morning

[01:39:54] In different times of the year, it's cool

[01:39:58] And it always gets the ocean breeze

[01:40:02] So the wines are bright there's an acidity to them. It is so remarkable

[01:40:09] And we very seldom would have to acidulate the wines

[01:40:14] So the wines are on their own acid which is much better than tartaric or any other kind of acid you could add

[01:40:20] And that gives this wonderful

[01:40:24] bright expression

[01:40:27] And i've tried to pinpoint what it is about the pinot noir and to me there is

[01:40:36] Almost a spicy nutmeg character

[01:40:40] That defines the thread

[01:40:42] that connects

[01:40:44] all the producers of

[01:40:46] Pinot noir from sanford and benedict

[01:40:49] There have been a number of winemakers who have made some beautiful wines from that vineyard

[01:40:54] Sadly completely out of my price range now

[01:40:58] I would love to have more

[01:41:00] But um can't afford it

[01:41:03] But it's wonderful to see that vineyard performing so beautifully even though I don't own it anymore

[01:41:10] And the original plantings were own rooted. And how did you experience working with own rooted fruit versus grafted?

[01:41:17] The own rooted fruit

[01:41:20] Has more character

[01:41:23] I found over time that the

[01:41:27] Gravelly soils of sanford and benedict

[01:41:30] provide that leanness

[01:41:33] And as i've planted new vineyards in

[01:41:36] More clay-like soils

[01:41:39] That the pinot noir expresses

[01:41:43] In a clay loam soil

[01:41:46] It has a bigger

[01:41:49] More luscious character and I like the leanness of the sanford and benedict frankly

[01:41:55] Chardonnay

[01:41:58] Can be made in many different styles and that's the beauty of chardonnay in santa barbara county

[01:42:04] it is

[01:42:05] The great for this region

[01:42:07] It makes beautiful wines

[01:42:10] And it can be steered more toward a chablis style bright

[01:42:15] Crisp acid

[01:42:18] Or we've experimented brunner and I used to make a wine we would call barrel select and that was

[01:42:25] Barrel fermented new barrels and aged

[01:42:29] And it gets to the point where it's very over oaked. But if you leave it long enough

[01:42:34] It becomes very mercile like it's really wonderful

[01:42:39] creamy

[01:42:41] And it's long finish

[01:42:44] Tecla was at the hitching post to restaurant and she met someone else that was also there and his name was rex

[01:42:52] Oh, that's funny I was on a trip I think to new york

[01:42:57] And she said I met this person at the hitching post

[01:43:02] And he says

[01:43:04] We're going to be in the book he's writing

[01:43:08] It turned out

[01:43:10] The book was sideways. It was rex pickett

[01:43:13] He used to hang out at the hitching post

[01:43:17] That was her first meeting with rex

[01:43:21] and not long thereafter

[01:43:25] Frank costini the owner of the hitching coast calls me

[01:43:29] and said

[01:43:32] Alexander pain is going to make a movie

[01:43:35] Of this guy rex pickett's book

[01:43:38] sideways

[01:43:41] And it's about

[01:43:44] Depression and alcoholism

[01:43:46] and he said

[01:43:47] Do we want to be involved? And I said to frank, you know what?

[01:43:52] it sounds a little suspicious to me, but

[01:43:55] let's check it out and

[01:43:58] Alexander he said you will not be shown in a bad light

[01:44:03] And so we thought well

[01:44:07] The reason that rex pickett wrote us into the book is the quality of her wine

[01:44:12] And so I felt that we should support this

[01:44:17] and in fact

[01:44:18] alexander

[01:44:20] Was very happy to see all the places that rex had

[01:44:23] written into the book

[01:44:25] Were wonderful places to be in the movie

[01:44:29] And so the movie was really unusual and that was not on a stage. It was in real place

[01:44:37] We had a

[01:44:39] Chris burrows

[01:44:41] Was a wonderful person he always wore a cowboy hat

[01:44:47] And he was our

[01:44:49] tasting room manager

[01:44:52] And he was in that first scene where they arrive in the san dines valley and go to a wine tasting and

[01:45:00] I'll remember he poured some

[01:45:03] Vangri it was a rose

[01:45:07] And

[01:45:09] He's in the movie he had to join the

[01:45:13] Actors guild for that and it's incredible the number of people who came just to take a picture of the place

[01:45:21] And take a picture of chris

[01:45:25] By the way, I said to the people we were making wine before sideways

[01:45:33] But I think it really put pina noir

[01:45:38] on a map

[01:45:39] And it introduced a wider audience to the beauty of pina noir

[01:45:45] I am old enough to have worked with sanford wines when you own the winery

[01:45:50] And one of the things that I really remember about it in addition to the popularity of the wines

[01:45:55] Was the popularity of the labels the physical labels on the bottles and what was the backstory to those labels being created?

[01:46:05] Oh, levy that labeling has been

[01:46:08] a challenge

[01:46:12] I remember, um creating the label for sanford and benedict vineyard

[01:46:18] And we used a beautiful tree

[01:46:21] It was in the vineyard sebastian titus was a friend. He was an artist in napa valley did a number of different

[01:46:30] Pen and ink sketches in napa. He did a calendar. He did the books about napa wineries

[01:46:37] And he was a label creator for a number of different wineries in napa he was a friend

[01:46:45] And he did the original

[01:46:48] pen and ink

[01:46:49] sketch of the tree that was at sanford and benedict

[01:46:53] And michael and I thought very

[01:46:57] hard about the label

[01:47:00] in fact, uh, the label says

[01:47:04] grown produced and bottled

[01:47:08] Bottled in the

[01:47:12] coastal hills of san inez valley by sanford and benedict wine growers at lompoc

[01:47:20] by the way, lompoc was a

[01:47:22] established as a temperance colony

[01:47:26] so we were wine producers in a

[01:47:29] Temperance area, excuse me a chuckle sometimes

[01:47:34] But curiously

[01:47:39] Or ironically

[01:47:42] The year after I left sanford and benedict the tree collapsed

[01:47:49] So it's no longer

[01:47:52] so as we began to develop the sanford label

[01:47:57] We thought wildflowers would be our theme

[01:48:02] And sebastian would come down every year in the spring

[01:48:08] And we would wander around

[01:48:11] And choose the wildflower for the next vintage

[01:48:14] Typically we would have

[01:48:17] A yellow flower on the chardonnay

[01:48:20] And a blue flower on the sauvignon blanc lupin. I remember

[01:48:27] And a red flower on the pinot noir

[01:48:30] And so we continued that program

[01:48:35] Of changing wildflowers each year

[01:48:41] Until we left the winery

[01:48:43] in

[01:48:47] 2006

[01:48:50] There were some cost overruns with the construction of the sanford winery

[01:48:54] There was a projection for what it might cost to build the facility. There was a reality of what it cost

[01:49:00] You took on a partner to help recoup some of that cost and provide for a balanced budget

[01:49:06] And eventually that partner took over and you were no longer at the sanford winery

[01:49:13] That is correct

[01:49:15] And that was a challenge for us

[01:49:19] It was really of my own making that I was so enthusiastic about

[01:49:25] Building a place

[01:49:27] Without compromise and that's been important to me

[01:49:32] And I did just that

[01:49:34] That place is built

[01:49:38] thoughtfully

[01:49:39] all out of native material

[01:49:42] without compromise

[01:49:45] And it just cost too much

[01:49:48] And I went through years of

[01:49:54] Financial challenges always having to have partners and the challenge for our business is either

[01:50:02] investment partners or banks

[01:50:05] And I went through a period of 24 percent interest rates and had to

[01:50:11] maneuver through that period

[01:50:15] But for us the real challenge

[01:50:19] Was

[01:50:22] the value of real estate that I would always

[01:50:26] Use the real estate

[01:50:28] as a leverage to get more debt and

[01:50:32] As you know the wine business

[01:50:35] Is one of the most

[01:50:37] Costly activities because we have to build inventories to hold to be able to re-release

[01:50:47] So

[01:50:49] The carrying costs of the business are immense

[01:50:53] And I was lucky to have banks supporting me

[01:50:58] And we were with silicon valley bank, which was a wonderful outfit

[01:51:02] Rob mcmillan was a great

[01:51:05] partner and

[01:51:06] Lovely person and they had their challenges

[01:51:12] We had challenges when

[01:51:14] Challenges when

[01:51:17] The real estate market collapsed and a lot of our leverage based on real estate values

[01:51:26] And a distributor who

[01:51:30] Signed up to take

[01:51:32] 10 000 cases of chardonnay and 5 000 cases of pinot noir

[01:51:37] But couldn't pay

[01:51:40] So some glitches like that were

[01:51:45] Unknown and a challenge

[01:51:50] But nonetheless

[01:51:52] We have sort of dusted ourselves off and started over again a number of times

[01:52:02] And after leaving sanford, uh, we

[01:52:08] Decided to create the alma rosa winery

[01:52:11] Uh, you started alma rosa and the vineyards are really pretty much down the road from the other

[01:52:17] Projects you've been involved with in the same region

[01:52:21] One of the things about you is you've spent a lot of time

[01:52:25] Developing vineyard sites that are not that far from each other

[01:52:30] But at different periods different decades

[01:52:34] so

[01:52:35] What have you learned over time laying out different vineyards in different parts of the santa rita hills?

[01:52:41] I'm, so grateful

[01:52:44] That i've had the experience of

[01:52:48] Developing specific vineyard sites

[01:52:52] over a period of time

[01:52:55] Each separated by about a decade

[01:52:59] And over time

[01:53:01] Different clones have become available into the market

[01:53:04] You remember there was a period

[01:53:07] In the 70s where there were suitcase clones and people would bring clones from

[01:53:16] Vineyards in europe and it's pretty easy. You just take a cutting from a

[01:53:19] Vine and you put it in your suitcase and come home if you get caught with it. Well, it's not a good situation, but

[01:53:26] sadly, there are diseases that are

[01:53:29] moved around the world by

[01:53:32] grapevines being in suitcases, but

[01:53:36] What's happened over time as these new clones have been developed

[01:53:41] And allowing these clones to be developed by nurseries

[01:53:45] there's a whole

[01:53:47] Business around this now where there wasn't in the early days. We made our own

[01:53:52] Nurseries and created our own vines

[01:53:57] But there are

[01:53:59] nurseries today where you can buy a

[01:54:03] Grapevine that has a trunk already and put it in the ground and have grapes in two years

[01:54:11] But it's been fun to experiment with the different clones as they become available because the first clones were

[01:54:18] as i've told you the

[01:54:22] Napagami that very upright

[01:54:25] Clone which is really Valdez

[01:54:29] And the

[01:54:31] Mount Eden clone, which was

[01:54:34] from Mount Eden

[01:54:37] There's the

[01:54:39] Burgundy clones, there's the six six seven seven seven seven

[01:54:44] It's

[01:54:46] Not very romantic all these different numbers, but at least they're specific about the different

[01:54:53] Clones and so

[01:54:55] the

[01:54:57] Sanford and benedict was on its old old clones and then the rinconada

[01:55:01] We were able to use mostly Wente and the Chardonnay

[01:55:08] Clone 76 for Chardonnay

[01:55:11] And there were the Burgundy clones of six six seven and seven seven seven available

[01:55:20] And then when we went on to plant the

[01:55:23] La Encantada vineyard, which is by the way named after my grandfather's ranch in Coahuila in Mexico

[01:55:31] means enchanted place

[01:55:35] We planted the swan clone

[01:55:38] We plant a little pinot blanc and pinot gris to go ferment with the pinot noir and of course

[01:55:48] 114 and 115

[01:55:52] And then as we planted out the

[01:55:57] El Jabali ranch

[01:56:00] We actually sold

[01:56:03] Alma Rosa and the ranch to Bob and Barbara Zorich

[01:56:10] And he's put a huge amount of enthusiasm and effort into planting additional vineyards and I'm

[01:56:18] very grateful to have

[01:56:21] Planted those vineyards for him

[01:56:24] So you have dusted yourself off and

[01:56:27] Picked up and gone down the road multiple times to start new wineries

[01:56:31] in the decades that you've been in Santa Rita Hills, and I think one of the frustrations that you have is that

[01:56:38] Your name is on a project that you're no longer associated with

[01:56:42] How do you feel about that?

[01:56:45] We were trying to figure out a name for

[01:56:49] Sanford and Benedict Robert Balzer said it sounds like a law firm

[01:56:54] And

[01:56:56] I always remember sitting in my pickup truck at the bottom of San Marcos Pass with Michael and my girlfriend

[01:57:04] at the time

[01:57:06] And what really pushed the decision making about our name was

[01:57:14] having to apply for

[01:57:16] an

[01:57:18] Bond

[01:57:20] And we had to come up with a name and finally

[01:57:26] Michael said

[01:57:27] Richard was your idea. Your name should be first

[01:57:32] And I think that was very thoughtful of him to say

[01:57:37] And that's why it became Sanford and Benedict

[01:57:41] When I left

[01:57:44] In 1981

[01:57:47] He was known for a while as the Benedict vineyard

[01:57:51] And there are some wines that have that but nothing lasts forever

[01:57:59] And I'm just grateful to have all the experience

[01:58:05] And it's been full of

[01:58:08] So much excitement and so much positive and so much heartache, but it's life happening

[01:58:15] And we just have to embrace it

[01:58:18] In large part you created a new region for Pinot Noir

[01:58:25] And some very successful Chardonnay as well

[01:58:28] And I just wonder I know your dad never saw that fully come to realization

[01:58:34] he died when you were still at Sanford and Benedict and

[01:58:37] There wasn't a lot of family communication after and I just wonder how that sits with you

[01:58:42] Has it been enough for you personally to say I did this

[01:58:47] You know

[01:58:52] Let me

[01:58:54] You always want people to recognize your good work

[01:58:59] And our egos are such that we want that

[01:59:03] support

[01:59:05] But I've learned along the way that the heartache part

[01:59:10] You can't overcome

[01:59:12] It's hard not to be recognized it's particularly hard to have

[01:59:22] Revisionist history to have people go back

[01:59:26] and redefine

[01:59:28] What someone has created?

[01:59:32] That's probably the hardest thing for me is to

[01:59:36] Have people change the story to benefit

[01:59:40] their interests

[01:59:42] Interests because the reality is

[01:59:48] The reality

[01:59:49] And that's misunderstood sometime

[01:59:55] Santa Barbara

[01:59:56] Pretty uh prosperous place these days property values are pretty high. Well, the wine country is pretty established

[02:00:04] How does that feel for you when you go into the hitching post and say hi to the bartender?

[02:00:08] And they recognize you and your pictures on the wall

[02:00:13] I'm very shy

[02:00:15] About all the accolades I was voted into the

[02:00:29] Winemakers hall of fame and I thought

[02:00:33] Why

[02:00:35] because

[02:00:36] I was just doing something I loved

[02:00:41] and

[02:00:42] Even today it's emotional

[02:00:45] That uh, i'm so moved to have

[02:00:49] Been recognized by my peers

[02:00:53] as a force

[02:00:57] And that's enough, you know, I don't have to have all the money in the world there's so much more to it

[02:01:06] Richard stanford has kept the emotion of making wine in santa barbara county. Thank you very much for being here today. You're welcome

[02:01:14] Appreciate it

[02:01:16] Appreciate it

[02:01:18] Richard stanford is the co-founder of the sanford and benedict winery planted the sanford and benedict vineyard

[02:01:24] Founded sanford winery and then founded almorosa in the santa rita hills of california

[02:01:32] All drink to that is hosted and produced by myself levy dalton

[02:01:36] Aaron scala has contributed original pieces

[02:01:39] Editorial assistance has been provided by bill kimsey

[02:01:42] The show music was performed and composed by rob moose and thomas bartlett show artwork by alicia tannoyan

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[02:03:04] But we're always open to nature and the variabilities

[02:03:10] And we have no control over that and I have to laugh about that because

[02:03:15] That's a very Taoist perspective that

[02:03:19] You just have to let it happen and respect nature

[02:03:26] And respect the vagaries of nature and all it offers

[02:03:33] I remember crying when it rained on my crop

[02:03:37] I got over that

[02:03:40] But it's true that you are part of nature and wine is a product of nature

[02:03:45] And it takes huge respect for nature to work through it